Jewellery Manufacturing Process Part-2 Chennai Gold Diamond Institute Jewellery Designing Rhino Jewel 3D CAD Courses Tamil nadu , India

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Aesera Jewellery Designing Training Academy
 Greams Road, Thousand Lights
Chennai - 600006,  Tamil nadu  India
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seshu.gopal@jewelrydesignacademy.com

www.academyofdesign.in

Jewellery Manufacturing Process Part-2 Chennai Diamond Institute Jewellery Designing Course

• Oxidizing: Antique jewellery is the oldest form of traditional ornaments. To give jewellery an antique look, it’s oxidized. This process is done by chemicals.
   
• Colouring the metal: When the ornamental piece or jewellery gets finish, to five it a more rich or new look its coloured. Liquid form of the metal Rhodium used to coloured jewellery. Rhodium is used on diamonds or stone’s prongs, grainy surface of sometimes all over the piece.
• Casting: Casting metal into a mould is done on a specially constructed machine, simple in principle and in operation by depending, nevertheless on the judgment and skill of its operator. Centrifugal force is relied upon to send the molten metal into every part of the intricate design and pattern of the model and also to eliminate gas bubbles and porous ness.
  
  Casting Platinum:
  No flux is needed when casting platinum as the metal is not subject to oxidization and stays clean at all stages of melting to the job of casting is primarily one of getting sufficient heat to make the metal flow freely. Platinum melts at around 1750’C but considerably more heat is needed to make it fluid enough to cast. It is difficult to define the colour of the metal ready for casting but perhaps the best description is ‘pearly white’. When viewed through the dark green goggles of the operator. When this colour has been reached, the arm of the machine is released and spins in an anti clock wise direction, forcing the metal into the mould.
  
  Casting Palladium: 
  Palladium casting is not quite so easily achieved. Although it melts at a slightly lower temperature it is more sluggish metal and more treacly when melted and requires the same casting temperature as platinum. Palladium is subject to oxidization and to overcome this flux is needed. The best time to add this to the melt is when the metal is just beginning to become molten. By carefully, manipulating the torch, the metal is washed around in the flux to help in achieving this cleanness, after which the flame is held quite steady in the centre of the melt until maximum heat is reached and the metal is ready for casting.
  
  Casting Gold:
  Casting gold into a mould is similar in principle to casting palladium but the heat required is not nearly so great. After the mould has been prepared and cooled down to the appropriate temperature. The remaining procedure will depend upon the quality. If gold to be cast, white gold needs greater heat than yellow gold and the higher the quality the greater the temperature required. This means that 18 Ct white needs to be hotter than 9 Ct before casting.
  
  Mold: mold is made by two processes:
• Hand-made: – by using this process, mold is made by worker at the same process used to make jewellery.
   
• Machine-made: by using CAM (Computer Aided Molding) techniques mold is done in machine. In this process first the design of ornament is made in 3D CAD (Computer Aided jewellery Designing), after than it’s applied for mold in molding machine. And the CAM machine is made the mold automatically.
   

Making the Wax-Model & Wax-Tree: From the mold which made by hand or CAM machine; wax model is made. The wax models, which are made by this technique, are than sticking in wax rod, which called Wax-Tree.

Lost wax Casting: Investment is the mixture of P.O.P. (Plaster of Paris) or other clay and water. A small amount of investment is coated over the wax-model by hand or brush and in machine it’s putting in large quantity surrounding the wax-tree placed in furnace. The furnace is then turn on. During this process of heating, the investment will bone dry and the wax will flow or burn out. This process called “Lost Wax”. For casting lost wax is the classic form.

Granulation: Granulation is the art of fastening gold or other metal’s granules onto another body of gold or other metal without the use of solder.

Electro forming: Electro forming is the art of building metallic pieces; by electro-deposition on a base or matrix, which is than removed in whole or in part, leaving a shell of electro deposited metal.