Tuesday 29 May 2012

Pearl


Contact
Aesera Jewellery Designing training Academy
No 144/74, Eskay building, 3rd floor
Greams road, Thousand Lights
Chennai- 600006
Contact : +91-44-42027188, 044-42027166
seshu.gopal@jewelrydesignacademy.com
 About Pearl
Pearls have been prized for their beauty and rarity for more than four thousand years. From ancient China, India, and Egypt, to Imperial Rome, to the Arab world, to Native American tribes, cultures from around the world and throughout recorded history have valued pearls longer than any other gem. Pearls are the only gemstones grown inside of a living organism. Pearls are formed within oysters or mollusks when a foreign substance (most often a parasite – not a grain of sand) invades the shell of the mollusk and enters the soft mantle tissue. In response to the irritation, the mantle’s epithelial cells form a sac (known as a pearl sac) which secretes a crystalline substance called nacre, the same substance which makes up the interior of a mollusk’s shell, which builds up in layers around the irritant, forming a pearl

In the early part of the 20th century, Japanese researchers discovered a method of producing pearls artificially. Essentially, the method involves inserting a foreign substance, or nucleus, into the tissue of the oyster or mollusk, then returning it to the sea, allowing a cultured pearl to develop naturally. This practice was already quite widespread culturing hemispherical pearls known as mabe pearls. Kokichi Mikimoto is credited with perfecting the technique for artificially stimulating the development of round pearls in akoya mollusks, receiving a patent for this technique in 1916.

The Pearl Necklace Comes In Many Styles :-
Pearl necklaces come in a wide variety of styles:
  • Bib: Consists of several strands of pearls of varying lengths.
  • Collar or Dog Collar: Consists of multiple strands of pearls worn high on the neck. Very popular during the Victorian era, and making a bit of a comeback now, they are 12-13 inches long.
  • Choker: Similar to a collar, but is worn somewhat lower on the neck and is 14-16 inches long.
  • Princess: Essentially the “classic” length for a pearl necklace, lying slightly below the neck. A versatile necklace, that can be worn with many different styles of neckline, and is 17-19 inches long.
  • Matinee: Traditionally worn for semi-formal occasions, works well with suits and dresses, and is 20-24 inches long.
  • Opera: Generally worn at formal occasions with evening dresses. The pearls should fall below the bust line. To be worn during the day in less-formal settings, the strand can be doubled over. The Opera necklace is 30-36 inches long.
  • Rope: This is the longest of all pearl necklace styles. It can also be doubled, as well as knotted. Some rope necklaces have multiple clasps, which allow it to be broken down into shorter strands. Rope necklaces are over 36 inches long.

Metal for Jewellery


Contact
Aesera Jewellery Designing training Academy
No 144/74, Eskay building, 3rd floor
Greams road, Thousand Lights
Chennai- 600006
Contact : +91-44-42027188, 044-42027166
seshu.gopal@jewelrydesignacademy.com

Gold

For centuries, Gold been cherished for being strong .Gold is also malleable enough to suit endless designs, so it’s an excellent foundation for all types of jewelry. Because it’s resistant to corrosion, tarnish and rust, gold jewelry will look new for a long time. While the rich color of pure gold is beautiful, it is too soft to have the strength and durability needed for jewelry. To give it the strength needed, it must be alloyed with other metals such as copper, silver, zinc or nickel. The percentage of pure gold to alloys is expressed in karatage.

Definition of Karatage in gold content for recognized International Standards
Carats/Karats
Fineness, %
old content, %
Comments
24
999
99.9
-
24
990
99.0
Minimum allowed
22
916
91.6
Indian subcontinent
21
875
87.5
Arabic countries
(19.2)
800
80.0
Standard in Portugal
18
750
75.0
Standard karatage
14
585
58.5
583 / 58.3% in USA
10
417
41.7
Minimum in USA
9
375
37.5
U.K. standard
8
333
33.3
Minimum Germany
The shade of yellow gold can vary based on the alloy. As the amount of gold increases, so does the brightness of the yellow color. When yellow gold is mixed with nickel and zinc, it becomes white gold, which looks similar to platinum. White gold is often finished by plating it with rhodium, which will give it an even whiter, more brilliant appearance. Mixing more copper into the gold creates rose gold, which has a soft blush hue.
Type
Gold % wt
Silver %
Copper %
Colour
22 ct
91.6
8.4
-
yellow
91.6
5.5
2.8
yellow
91.6
5.5
5.1
Deep yellow
91.6
-
8.4
Pink/rose
18 ct
75.0
25.0
-
Green-yellow
75.0
16.0
9.0
Pale yellow, 2N
75.0
12.5
12.5
Yellow, 3N
75.0
9.0
16.0
Pink, 4N
14 ct
58.5
4.5
20.5
Red, 5N
58.5
41.5
-
Pale green
58.5
30.0
11.5
Yellow
9 ct
37.5
9.0
32.5
Red
37.5
37.5
62.5
White
37.5
55.0
7.5
Pale Yellow
37.5
42.5
20.0
Yellow
37.5
31.25
31.25
Rich Yellow
37.5
20.0
42.5
Pink
37.5
7.5
55.0
Red
Platinum

The setting of the Hope Diamond is platinum — not to mention the casket of your typical High Egyptian Priestess! The durability and heaviness of platinum has been treasured for millennia. But with those properties comes a high price. Platinum is a dense metal, the density of platinum makes it more durable than other jewellery metals. It is naturally hypoallergenic and ideal for those with sensitive skin. Platinum’s unequalled durability and resistance to wear makes it the most secure and protective metal. Found in very few places around the world, platinum is 30 times more rare than gold.
Sterling Silver

Silversmithing is an ancient art that, like crafting gold, dates back to the Egyptian empires. Throughout history, silver has been valued for its luster and utility, and was particularly prized by native people in Mexico, Peru, and the American West. Though less popular in the early 1900s, when it was used more for tea sets and utensils than for jewelry, silver jewellery is extremely popular today with both men and women. The sheer affordability and malleability of silver opens up tremendous possibilities for jewelry designers.

Like gold, silver is so soft it often needs to be alloyed, usually with copper. Sterling silver 92.5% pure and 7.5% copper. The copper alloy does little to diminish the value of your silver. The value of sterling silver jewelry is actually determined by the amount of labor and quality of workmanship that goes into the creation of a piece.
Stainless Steel

Stainless steel jewelry is slightly similar in appearance to silver. It is harder than silver and will not tarnish which is why it is increasingly used in jewelry. White gold and sterling silver pieces often contain a metal called ‘nickel’ which can cause allergic reactions in some people. Stainless jewelry can be (but is not always) made without nickel making it suitable for those allergic to nickel. Depending upon the shape and type of jewelry stainless steel may be more difficult and hence more expensive than a corresponding piece of silver jewelry. Stainless jewelry does not have the same luster or shine as other metals but some prefer its slightly more metallic appearance and it is particularly popular amongst men. Stainless steel jewelry is more jewelry than gold and silver pieces and will not tarnish or rust as easily.
Tungsten Carbide

Tungsten carbide is created when tungsten and carbide powders are combined and heated at 2,400 degrees Fahrenheit. The result is a metal that is virtually indestructible, and that will retain its original finish for a lifetime. This jewelry is nearly impossible to scratch and a high polish finish can only be created using a diamond compound. Tungsten carbide is a heavy metal, which gives it a very luxurious feel when you wear it. Tungsten carbide has the most tensile strength of any metal. It stays solid, stays shiny, and stays ‘clean’ — boasting natural hypoallergenic qualities that make it a good choice to wear next to the skin.
Titanium

Easily the strongest of all metals used in jewelry. Titanium is available in a number of colors dependent upon the anodizing process used to create the piece. Titanium is very low maintenance and robust and will outlast all other types of jewelry. Titanium is also extremely light. These reasons combine to make it very popular among new types of jewelry. Unfortunately it is still quite expensive due mostly to the processes required to produce titanium jewelry.