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Aesera Jewellery Designing training Academy
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Chennai- 600006
Contact : +91-44-42027188, 044-42027166
seshu.gopal@jewelrydesignacademy.com
Gold
For centuries, Gold been cherished for being strong .Gold is also malleable enough to suit endless designs, so it’s an excellent foundation for all types of jewelry. Because it’s resistant to corrosion, tarnish and rust, gold jewelry will look new for a long time. While the rich color of pure gold is beautiful, it is too soft to have the strength and durability needed for jewelry. To give it the strength needed, it must be alloyed with other metals such as copper, silver, zinc or nickel. The percentage of pure gold to alloys is expressed in karatage.
For centuries, Gold been cherished for being strong .Gold is also malleable enough to suit endless designs, so it’s an excellent foundation for all types of jewelry. Because it’s resistant to corrosion, tarnish and rust, gold jewelry will look new for a long time. While the rich color of pure gold is beautiful, it is too soft to have the strength and durability needed for jewelry. To give it the strength needed, it must be alloyed with other metals such as copper, silver, zinc or nickel. The percentage of pure gold to alloys is expressed in karatage.
Definition of Karatage
in gold content for recognized International Standards
|
Carats/Karats
|
Fineness, %
|
old content, %
|
Comments
|
|
24
|
999
|
99.9
|
-
|
|
24
|
990
|
99.0
|
Minimum
allowed
|
|
22
|
916
|
91.6
|
Indian
subcontinent
|
|
21
|
875
|
87.5
|
Arabic
countries
|
|
(19.2)
|
800
|
80.0
|
Standard
in Portugal
|
|
18
|
750
|
75.0
|
Standard
karatage
|
|
14
|
585
|
58.5
|
583
/ 58.3% in USA
|
|
10
|
417
|
41.7
|
Minimum
in USA
|
|
9
|
375
|
37.5
|
U.K.
standard
|
|
8
|
333
|
33.3
|
Minimum
Germany
|
The shade of yellow gold can vary
based on the alloy. As the amount of gold increases, so does the brightness of
the yellow color. When yellow gold is mixed with nickel and zinc, it becomes
white gold, which looks similar to platinum. White gold is often finished by
plating it with rhodium, which will give it an even whiter, more brilliant
appearance. Mixing more copper into the gold creates rose gold, which has a
soft blush hue.
|
Type
|
Gold % wt
|
Silver %
|
Copper %
|
Colour
|
|
22
ct
|
91.6
|
8.4
|
-
|
yellow
|
|
91.6
|
5.5
|
2.8
|
yellow
|
|
|
91.6
|
5.5
|
5.1
|
Deep
yellow
|
|
|
91.6
|
-
|
8.4
|
Pink/rose
|
|
|
18
ct
|
75.0
|
25.0
|
-
|
Green-yellow
|
|
75.0
|
16.0
|
9.0
|
Pale
yellow, 2N
|
|
|
75.0
|
12.5
|
12.5
|
Yellow,
3N
|
|
|
75.0
|
9.0
|
16.0
|
Pink,
4N
|
|
|
14
ct
|
58.5
|
4.5
|
20.5
|
Red,
5N
|
|
58.5
|
41.5
|
-
|
Pale
green
|
|
|
58.5
|
30.0
|
11.5
|
Yellow
|
|
|
9
ct
|
37.5
|
9.0
|
32.5
|
Red
|
|
37.5
|
37.5
|
62.5
|
White
|
|
|
37.5
|
55.0
|
7.5
|
Pale
Yellow
|
|
|
37.5
|
42.5
|
20.0
|
Yellow
|
|
|
37.5
|
31.25
|
31.25
|
Rich
Yellow
|
|
|
37.5
|
20.0
|
42.5
|
Pink
|
|
|
37.5
|
7.5
|
55.0
|
Red
|
Platinum
The setting of the Hope Diamond is platinum — not to mention the casket of your typical High Egyptian Priestess! The durability and heaviness of platinum has been treasured for millennia. But with those properties comes a high price. Platinum is a dense metal, the density of platinum makes it more durable than other jewellery metals. It is naturally hypoallergenic and ideal for those with sensitive skin. Platinum’s unequalled durability and resistance to wear makes it the most secure and protective metal. Found in very few places around the world, platinum is 30 times more rare than gold.
The setting of the Hope Diamond is platinum — not to mention the casket of your typical High Egyptian Priestess! The durability and heaviness of platinum has been treasured for millennia. But with those properties comes a high price. Platinum is a dense metal, the density of platinum makes it more durable than other jewellery metals. It is naturally hypoallergenic and ideal for those with sensitive skin. Platinum’s unequalled durability and resistance to wear makes it the most secure and protective metal. Found in very few places around the world, platinum is 30 times more rare than gold.
Sterling Silver
Silversmithing is an ancient art that, like crafting gold, dates back to the Egyptian empires. Throughout history, silver has been valued for its luster and utility, and was particularly prized by native people in Mexico, Peru, and the American West. Though less popular in the early 1900s, when it was used more for tea sets and utensils than for jewelry, silver jewellery is extremely popular today with both men and women. The sheer affordability and malleability of silver opens up tremendous possibilities for jewelry designers.
Like gold, silver is so soft it often needs to be alloyed, usually with copper. Sterling silver 92.5% pure and 7.5% copper. The copper alloy does little to diminish the value of your silver. The value of sterling silver jewelry is actually determined by the amount of labor and quality of workmanship that goes into the creation of a piece.
Silversmithing is an ancient art that, like crafting gold, dates back to the Egyptian empires. Throughout history, silver has been valued for its luster and utility, and was particularly prized by native people in Mexico, Peru, and the American West. Though less popular in the early 1900s, when it was used more for tea sets and utensils than for jewelry, silver jewellery is extremely popular today with both men and women. The sheer affordability and malleability of silver opens up tremendous possibilities for jewelry designers.
Like gold, silver is so soft it often needs to be alloyed, usually with copper. Sterling silver 92.5% pure and 7.5% copper. The copper alloy does little to diminish the value of your silver. The value of sterling silver jewelry is actually determined by the amount of labor and quality of workmanship that goes into the creation of a piece.
Stainless Steel
Stainless steel jewelry is slightly similar in appearance to silver. It is harder than silver and will not tarnish which is why it is increasingly used in jewelry. White gold and sterling silver pieces often contain a metal called ‘nickel’ which can cause allergic reactions in some people. Stainless jewelry can be (but is not always) made without nickel making it suitable for those allergic to nickel. Depending upon the shape and type of jewelry stainless steel may be more difficult and hence more expensive than a corresponding piece of silver jewelry. Stainless jewelry does not have the same luster or shine as other metals but some prefer its slightly more metallic appearance and it is particularly popular amongst men. Stainless steel jewelry is more jewelry than gold and silver pieces and will not tarnish or rust as easily.
Stainless steel jewelry is slightly similar in appearance to silver. It is harder than silver and will not tarnish which is why it is increasingly used in jewelry. White gold and sterling silver pieces often contain a metal called ‘nickel’ which can cause allergic reactions in some people. Stainless jewelry can be (but is not always) made without nickel making it suitable for those allergic to nickel. Depending upon the shape and type of jewelry stainless steel may be more difficult and hence more expensive than a corresponding piece of silver jewelry. Stainless jewelry does not have the same luster or shine as other metals but some prefer its slightly more metallic appearance and it is particularly popular amongst men. Stainless steel jewelry is more jewelry than gold and silver pieces and will not tarnish or rust as easily.
Tungsten Carbide
Tungsten carbide is created when tungsten and carbide powders are combined and heated at 2,400 degrees Fahrenheit. The result is a metal that is virtually indestructible, and that will retain its original finish for a lifetime. This jewelry is nearly impossible to scratch and a high polish finish can only be created using a diamond compound. Tungsten carbide is a heavy metal, which gives it a very luxurious feel when you wear it. Tungsten carbide has the most tensile strength of any metal. It stays solid, stays shiny, and stays ‘clean’ — boasting natural hypoallergenic qualities that make it a good choice to wear next to the skin.
Tungsten carbide is created when tungsten and carbide powders are combined and heated at 2,400 degrees Fahrenheit. The result is a metal that is virtually indestructible, and that will retain its original finish for a lifetime. This jewelry is nearly impossible to scratch and a high polish finish can only be created using a diamond compound. Tungsten carbide is a heavy metal, which gives it a very luxurious feel when you wear it. Tungsten carbide has the most tensile strength of any metal. It stays solid, stays shiny, and stays ‘clean’ — boasting natural hypoallergenic qualities that make it a good choice to wear next to the skin.
Titanium
Easily the strongest of all metals used in jewelry. Titanium is available in a number of colors dependent upon the anodizing process used to create the piece. Titanium is very low maintenance and robust and will outlast all other types of jewelry. Titanium is also extremely light. These reasons combine to make it very popular among new types of jewelry. Unfortunately it is still quite expensive due mostly to the processes required to produce titanium jewelry.
Easily the strongest of all metals used in jewelry. Titanium is available in a number of colors dependent upon the anodizing process used to create the piece. Titanium is very low maintenance and robust and will outlast all other types of jewelry. Titanium is also extremely light. These reasons combine to make it very popular among new types of jewelry. Unfortunately it is still quite expensive due mostly to the processes required to produce titanium jewelry.
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